The cellar is the beating heart of the company where the manual skills of the operators and the knowledge of the winemaker merge. Of course, today, technology is an indispensable element which, however, according to some, has taken poetry away from a work that is lost in the mists of time.
We ask the oenologist Luca Cantelli for his opinion on the matter.
What is your opinion on the statement: “Wine is no longer made in the vineyard, but only in the cellar”? A cliché sentence or does it hide a grain of truth?
That wine is made in the vineyard is clear; equally important is that without perfect grapes it is impossible to make an excellent wine but technology, and a cellar that is equipped with it, unquestionably helps to “shape” the wine in the best possible way.
How much has technology in the cellar improved and how depersonalized the work of the winemaker?
Technology is a tool that, if used with rationality and knowledge of the facts, can only improve production processes. I believe, in fact, that he only made the work of winemakers express the best, without depersonalizing it.
According to your experience, which technological tool today is impossible to give up?
I believe that there are many technological tools that have facilitated and improved the production conditions in the cellar but, above all, the aid of cold has become essential to produce quality wines, as it has allowed to produce white and rosé wines of a certain finesse and also to better control the fermentation kinetics of the reds.
What are the main criticalities of a winery and what is your modus operandi to solve them?
The main critical issues are cleanliness, hygiene and order; without these requirements it is not possible to have a healthy and quality food product.
In your imagination, how should your ideal cellar be structured? Did you manage to find it in any company?
For me, the ideal winery is the one that combines technology with the roots of a territory, allowing all the figures involved in the process to express their passion and their skills.