The Aeolian Islands, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, are a living testament to ancient traditions and extraordinary human endeavour. The seven volcanic islands – Alicudi, Filicudi, Lipari, Panarea, Salina, Stromboli and Vulcano – have long been shrouded in legend. The ancient Greeks, who settled here around 580 BC, believed them to be the domain of Aeolus, the god of winds. Today, this dramatic landscape, shaped by volcanic forces and caressed by the sea, supports a unique and challenging form of viticulture that produces the renowned Malvasia delle Lipari wine.
The Aeolian Islands offer a captivating blend of nature’s raw power and centuries of gentle human cultivation. Towering volcanic promontories are softened by lush greenery, and the rhythm of life is dictated by the sea. The islands are renowned for their stunning beaches, which are a vibrant testament to their unique character, as well as for their gastronomic riches. Salina’s capers, which are protected by the Slow Food Presidium, are a local delicacy, and the islands have become a leading destination for Italian food and wine tourism. Charming, high-quality accommodation and sophisticated restaurants provide an exclusive and unforgettable experience, enhanced further by the collaborative efforts of the Salina Isola Verde Hoteliers’ Association and the archipelago’s distinctive eateries.
The very soil of the Aeolian Islands is a unique tapestry woven from volcanic sand and pebbles smoothed by the relentless sea. This dynamic environment, which is constantly evolving from ancient lava flows and eruptive materials, supports flora and fauna that cannot be found anywhere else among these seven Sicilian gems. It is within this extraordinary setting that environmentally conscious viticulture and agriculture have flourished. Vineyards are meticulously cultivated on steep slopes, often extending from sea level to altitudes exceeding 400 metres. Though often of limited thickness, the highly permeable, predominantly sandy volcanic soils provide the perfect, albeit demanding, foundation for the vines.
© Ph.Consorzio Malvasia delle Lipari
Since ancient times, the cultivation of grapes on these slopes has relied on the ingenuity of drystone walls, built using local lava stone. These terraces not only contain the land, but also actively create new cultivable areas, transforming the evocative landscape into something unique. With annual rainfall averaging between 500 and 600 mm, concentrated primarily in autumn and winter, the dedicated farmers face an additional challenge.
The history of winemaking in the Aeolian Islands is as deep and rich as the volcanic soil itself. The historian Diodorus Siculus recounted the arrival of a Greek colony in Lipari between 588 and 577 BC who brought with them a grape variety that would eventually be named Malvasia. However, some theories suggest that the Mycenaeans, with their well-established trade routes, may have introduced the variety even earlier, between the 16^(th) and 14^(th) centuries BC. Regardless of the precise origin, the connection between viticulture and this distinctive grape variety on the islands is undeniable. Tangible proof of this can be seen in the form of coins discovered in Lipari dating back to the 5th and 4th centuries BC which depict vine shoots and clusters of grapes in striking detail.
The turn of the 20th century was a pivotal moment for Malvasia delle Lipari. In 1900, the wine captured international attention at the Paris Exposition, earning prestigious awards and widespread acclaim. Although the wine market has fluctuated over the years, a robust resurgence began in the late 1980s, and this trend has continued to gain momentum.
The modern era has seen the Malvasia delle Lipari DOC undergo a positive and dynamic evolution. New vineyards have been planted and wineries established, with the dedication and professionalism of those involved consistently elevating the quality and reputation of this distinctive wine. The national and international accolades received by Malvasia delle Lipari DOC wines are testament to the success of this revitalisation.
Malvasia delle Lipari belongs to the ancient and diverse Malvasia grape family, the origins of which remain a subject of debate. However, its name is strongly linked to Greece, likely deriving from Monemvasia, a fortified port city in the Peloponnese. The unique volcanic, sandy soils of the Aeolian Islands possess the precise balance of minerals, sugar content and acidity that give Malvasia its distinctive character. This versatile grape is produced in several styles, including a luscious passito (dried grape wine), a fortified passito and a dry white. The modern dry version has gained significant traction among Aeolian producers in recent years.
© Ph.Consorzio Malvasia delle Lipari
The regulations governing the Malvasia delle Lipari DOC are designed to preserve the wine’s unique character and quality. They stipulate the exclusive use of Malvasia di Lipari grapes (up to 95%) and Corinto Nero grapes (5–8%). These regulations are based on the strictest environmental and cultivation conditions while remaining deeply rooted in tradition. This unwavering commitment ensures that the grapes and the wines they produce possess specific quality characteristics that are intrinsically linked to the unique terroir of the Aeolian Islands.
Corinto Nero is a red grape variety native to Greece and found throughout the Mediterranean basin. It is cultivated on low pergolas and as bush-trained vines. However, espalier training with medium-density vines has also become more prevalent to better withstand the islands’ strong winds. Malvasia delle Lipari grapes typically reach peak ripeness for harvest during the first or second week of September, when they are gathered at an advanced stage of maturation.
Forced cultivation methods are strictly prohibited for both varietals, and emergency irrigation is permitted only when necessary. Planting distances, training systems and pruning techniques are carefully maintained in line with traditional methods to ensure the authentic characteristics of the grapes and wine are preserved.
Across the Aeolian archipelago, around 160 hectares are dedicated to vineyards, two-thirds of which are planted with Malvasia grapes. This is a tangible testament to the profound commitment and passion of the producers and winemakers who cultivate these remarkable coastal vineyards. This is essentially “heroic viticulture” – a testament to the immense human effort that brings Malvasia delle Lipari to life. The distinctive landscape, nectar and essence of this wine are the result of terraced slopes secured by dry-stone lava walls, budgie-trained vines and the unwavering dedication of human labour.
The production of Malvasia delle Lipari is a meticulous process, from vineyard to cellar. Pruning is tailored to the genetic makeup of each cultivar and the vines are primarily cultivated on Salina, Lipari and Vulcano.
Established on 14 July 2016, the Malvasia Consortium is a vital guardian of this extraordinary volcanic terroir. Its mission is to oversee the care, protection and promotion of the Malvasia delle Lipari DOC and Salina IGT designations. The Consortium actively monitors the marketing phase and collaborates with a wide array of organisations, institutions and trade associations to support its members through promotional and marketing initiatives. The Consortium’s history and operational framework are dedicated to achieving shared objectives, ultimately strengthening the image and prestige of Malvasia delle Lipari. The core of its mission lies in safeguarding ‘heroic viticulture’, consolidating the unique territorial identity and emphasising the distinctive qualities of the Aeolian terroir.
© Ph.Consorzio Malvasia delle Lipari
Today, the Consortium operates under an ‘erga omnes’ mandate, ensuring that all stakeholders in the production chain, from vineyard to bottle, adhere to mandatory designation rules. This long-pursued objective has solidified the collective efforts of the Consortium’s leadership — the Presidency, the Board of Directors and the Assembly — in developing and implementing programmes designed to enhance and protect the designation under the DOC delle Lipari and IGT Salina denominations. From the annual ‘Malvasia Day’, a celebratory event dedicated to this traditional heroic viticulture practised in volcanic soils against a marine backdrop, the Consortium now embodies a unified vision and approach. This vision is grounded in the unique characteristics of the production process, soil, climate and viticultural context that define the ‘Aeolian vineyard’.
© Ph.Consorzio Malvasia delle Lipari
The ultimate aim is to restore Malvasia delle Lipari to its rightful place, acknowledging its historical, economic, and cultural significance, as well as the profound impact it has had on generations of farmers and small-scale producers. The Aeolian Islands are enduring symbols of a vibrant civilisation of vines and wine in the Mediterranean. This civilisation is founded on a delicate balance between humanity and nature, and on the economic sustainability of its vineyards. Today, this legacy must pave the way for new opportunities for those who cultivate grapes and produce wine in this extraordinary archipelago, ensuring the continued prosperity and success of this historic grape variety: Malvasia delle Lipari.
