The story began in 1967, when the Italian Ministry of Agriculture granted the “Rosso Conero” appellation DOC status in recognition of the Conero promontory’s unique terroir. In 2004, the decree was expanded to include a DOCG reserve, stipulating a minimum ageing period of two years in wooden barrels. Today, twenty independent growers, each with their own family history and vinification style, have joined forces to promote the wine via the newly mapped ‘Path of Rosso Conero’, a scenic route linking the coastal towns of Sirolo, Numana and Camerano with the inland villages of Offagna, Castelfidardo and Osimo.
‘We are not a large commercial operation,’ says Luca Bianchi, a winemaker at a family-run winery in Sirolo. ‘Our goal is to let people feel the wind from the Adriatic on their faces and smell the scotch broom and lavender, and then taste the result: a wine that tells the story of where it comes from.’
‘We are not a large commercial operation,’ says Luca Bianchi, a vintner at the family-run cantina in Sirolo. ‘Our goal is to let people feel the wind from the Adriatic on their faces and smell the scotch broom and lavender, and then taste a wine that tells the story of where it comes from.’
A Landscape Shaped by Sun and Sea
The Conero cliffs rise sharply from the blue waters of the Adriatic, their limestone faces catching the Mediterranean sun for most of the day. This exposure, coupled with a gentle sea breeze that brings a subtle brininess to the vines, creates a microclimate that is particularly suited to the Montepulciano grape. At least 85% of the blend must be Montepulciano, with up to 15% Sangiovese permitted to soften the structure.
The vineyards cling to terraced ridges that appear to tumble into the sea, an image that has inspired painters and poets alike. In spring, the hills are perfumed by the scent of blooming scotch broom and lavender, while in summer, the grapes ripen under a canopy of golden light. The result is an intense ruby-coloured wine, initially tinged with violet, which deepens to a garnet shade as it matures.
© Ph.Marche Wine IMT
From Monastery Records to Modern Legend
References to the ‘nectar derived from a particular type of grapevine which grows on the Conero’ appear in 12th-century documents from Benedictine monasteries. Andrea Bacci, physician to Pope Sixtus V, mentions the therapeutic virtues of Conero wine in a 1596 medical treatise, noting its ability to “restore vigour to those who partake in moderation”.
Later, the celebrated poet Giacomo Leopardi alluded to Conero’s red wines in his letters, describing the ‘sweet intoxication that steadies the soul when the sea wind meets the wine’s perfume’. According to a local legend, the Conero cliff is the last visible remnant of the ancient city of Adria, a civilisation said to have been swallowed by the sea, much like Atlantis. Whether fact or folklore, these tales lend the area a mystical allure that the new consortium is keen to share.
The Consortium and the “Path of Rosso Conero”
In 2023, twenty growers formed an association called Associazione Produttori Rosso Conero. The association’s explicit aim is to preserve traditional methods while opening the region to sustainable tourism. Their flagship project is the ‘Path of Rosso Conero’, a 45-kilometre route marked by stone signs and QR codes which guide visitors to each cellar and provide information on the specific soil composition and tasting notes.
The route begins in the historic centre of Ancona, where the first DOC-approved bottling was produced, and winds northwards through the vineyards of Offagna before descending to the coastal hamlet of Numana. Tourists can stop along the way at family-run agriturismi for a glass of young Rosso Conero, which is still crisp with notes of prunes, liquorice and a subtle floral perfume, or visit a reserve cellar where the wine has spent two years maturing in French oak barrels, acquiring a gently spiced character with softened tannins.
Organoleptic profile – what to expect
Colour: Deep ruby with violet highlights that evolve into garnet red as the wine ages.
Aroma: A persistent bouquet of dried plums, liquorice and faint violet petals, with a background hint of sea-salted herbs.
Palate: Full-bodied and dry with an initial tannic bite that mellows after the first year. Early releases are dominated by fruitiness, while reserve bottlings develop nutty, spicy undertones from barrel ageing.
Finish: A long, slightly warming ‘pseudo-calorific’ sensation, which is a testament to the low yields per hectare and the pronounced micro-climate of the Conero slopes.
The wine is best served at around 18 °C in a medium-sized Bordeaux glass. Decanting is advised for reserves older than five years, to allow the sediment to settle and the aromas to open up.
Pairings: From light fare to hearty feasts
Young Rosso Conero is best paired with white-meat dishes such as roasted chicken, grilled sea bass or delicate mushroom risotto, as well as semi-mature cheeses like pecorino stagionato. As the wine ages, it gains the robustness needed to accompany richer dishes, such as Florentine steak (bistecca alla fiorentina), braised wild boar (cinghiale) or pappardelle with a hearty ragù.
© Ph.Marche Wine IMT
A Growing Market and Future Prospects
Since the launch of the consortium’s marketing campaign in early 2024, export orders for Rosso Conero have increased by 27% year on year, with particularly strong interest from the United Kingdom, the United States, and Japan. The wine has been showcased at trade fairs in London and New York under the banner “Italian Red with a Sea-Breeze Twist”, highlighting its unique character and the rich history of its origin.
The association is also exploring organic certification and biodynamic practices, making use of the region’s natural biodiversity. “We are already seeing younger generations of farmers interested in sustainable viticulture,” says Bianchi. ‘If we can preserve the soil and sea air that give Rosso Conero its unique character, we will safeguard our heritage and secure our future.’
