After a century of neglect, the Tortonesi (or Tortona) Hills – a natural corridor where Piedmont, Liguria, Lombardy and Emilia‑Romagna meet – are re‑emerging as a benchmark of Italian viticulture. A combination of unique geology, an ambitious generation of winemakers and a renewed sense of place is turning the region into a laboratory of “borderland” wine, where ancient cultivars such as Timorasso (now reborn under the name Derthona) sit beside Barbera, Cortese, Dolcetto and a suite of local varieties, each expressing a terroir that is as complex as the map it straddles.
A geological goldmine: the Sant’Agata Fossili Marl
At the heart of the story lies a formation that few Italian wine regions can claim: the Sant’Agata Fossili Marl, a Miocene‑age deposit that spreads over the central part of the hills and blankets the vineyards in a thin, yet extraordinarily fertile, mixture of limestone and fine clay. Geologists describe it as “one of the most suitable marly formations in the country,” citing its high calcium content, excellent water‑retention capacity and a mineral profile that translates into the sharp, persistent minerality for which Tortona wines are increasingly praised.
The marl does not act alone. Pockets of sandy alluvial soils near the Borbera and Spinti valleys, and more clay‑rich deposits closer to the plains, add layers of nuance. This geological mosaic is the canvas on which the region’s winemakers paint, and it is why the same grape can yield strikingly different expressions within a few kilometres.
Derthona – the ‘new old’ white that put Tortona back on the map
If there is a single name that encapsulates the resurgence, it is Derthona, the commercial label adopted in 2021 for the ancient white grape once known locally as Timorasso. Historically, Timorasso was a prized cultivar in the 18th and 19th centuries, producing aromatic, age‑worthy whites that were exported to the courts of Savoy. A late‑19th‑century phylloxera epidemic, followed by a post‑war shift toward higher‑yielding varieties, all but erased the grape from the vineyards.
© Ph. Consorzio Tutela Vini Colli Tortonesi
Terre di Libarna – a frontier of revival
Further west, the Terre di Libarna subzone, officially delineated in 2008, stretches through the Borbera and Spinti valleys across 12 municipalities that hug the Ligurian Apennines. Historically the route of the Via Postumia and home to the Roman city of Libarna, the area remained largely agricultural until the early 2000s, when vineyards fell into abandonment.
A regional recovery project funded by the Piemonte‑Lombardy‑Liguria cross‑border agreement earmarked 3 million euros for replanting, cellar upgrades, and agritourism infrastructure. The funds attracted a new wave of enologists, many of whom are the children of farmers who grew up watching vines die in the 1970s.
The subzone’s regulations are among the strictest in Piedmont: maximum yields of 7,200 kg/ha, a mandatory minimum aging of 20 months (including at least six months in oak), and a minimum alcohol level of 12.5%. Producers argue that these limits preserve the integrity of the terroir while allowing the wines to compete on the international stage.
Monleale – the historic heart of Barbera
While the western valleys are writing a new chapter, the Monleale subzone—recognized since 2005—remains the historic epicenter of Tortona’s red wine heritage. Encompassing 28 municipalities, including the eponymous Monleale, Tortona, Volpedo, Costa Vescovato, Rivalta Bormida and Crosas itself, this area is best known for its Barbera di Monleale, a wine that, though often eclipsed by the more famous Barbera of Asti and Alba, is carving out a distinct reputation.
The subzone’s soils, a calcareous‑clayey marl known locally as “Terreni di Tortona,” impart a natural acidity and a pronounced minerality that allow the Barbera to retain vibrancy even after extended aging. The strict production rules—including the aforementioned yield cap, a minimum of 20 months aging (with 6 in wood), and a minimum alcohol content of 12.5%—ensure the wine is both approachable in its youth and capable of evolving for decades.
Recent accolades underline this resurgence. Barbera di Monleale Riserva 2019, from Cantina Sociale di Monleale, earned a Gold Medal at Vinitaly 2025, with judges noting “the seamless integration of ripe cherry, subtle licorice, and a persistent mineral backbone that recalls the terroir’s marly origins.” The same wine now commands prices upwards of €38 per 750 ml bottle, a ten‑fold increase from its average price in 2018.
Beyond the grape: a broader rural identity
Wine, however, is only one thread in the tapestry of the Tortonesi Hills. The region boasts a rich culinary tradition that complements its viticultural renaissance.
- Montébore cheese, a semi‑hard, herb‑infused cheese made from the milk of hillside goat herds, has won two consecutive prizes at the European Cheese Awards (2023‑2024). Its nutty profile and slightly salty finish pair impeccably with the crisp acidity of Derthona whites.
- Volpedo peaches, cultivated on the sun‑kissed slopes of the Bormida river plain, have been granted Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in 2022. The fruit’s firm flesh and honeyed sweetness are a hallmark of the region’s microclimate—cool nights from the Apennine foothills and warm days moderated by the Po Valley breeze.
These products, together with a growing agritourism sector, are helping to forge a cohesive rural identity. The “Tortona Trail”, a 120‑kilometer hiking and cycling route that links vineyards, cheese farms, peach orchards and historic villages, saw a 45 % increase in visitor numbers in 2025 compared with the previous year, according to the provincial tourism board.
© Ph. Consorzio Tutela Vini Colli Tortonesi
What makes the Tortonesi Hills truly singular is the way geography, history and culture intersect at a literal crossroads. The hills sit at the meeting point of the Po Valley’s continental climate and the Apennine’s maritime influences, a duality mirrored in the wines: freshness and elegance from the valley, depth and minerality from the mountains.
