Wine & Other Stories

Emiliano Falsini: The ideal cellar

Written by Piero Pardini

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The cellar is the beating heart of the company where the manual skills of the operators and the knowledge of the winemaker merge. Of course, today, technology is an indispensable element which, however, according to some, has taken poetry away from a work that is lost in the mists of time.

We ask the oenologist Emiliano Falsini for his opinion on the matter.

© Ph. Emiliano Falsini Enologo

What is your opinion on the statement: “Wine is no longer made in the vineyard, but only in the cellar”? A cliché sentence or does it hide a grain of truth?

I absolutely disagree, wine is always made in the vineyard but the two components, namely vineyard and cellar, are both important: without a great grape it is never possible to make great wines but a functional cellar allows you to express yourself at your best.

How much has technology in the cellar improved and how depersonalized the work of the winemaker?

Technology has certainly improved and facilitated the work of technicians, allowing them to express themselves fully.

© Ph. Emiliano Falsini Enologo

According to your experience, which technological tool today is impossible to give up?

There is no specific tool. It depends on the wine you have to produce. In my opinion of wine, however, certainly white and rosé wines without the aid of cold are difficult to produce properly.

What are the main criticalities of a winery and what is your modus operandi to solve them?

The main criticality is cleanliness, to make good wines you need cleanliness and precision, the cellar needs a lot of cleaning.

In your imagination, how should your ideal cellar be structured? Did you manage to find it in any company?

I don’t have an ideal cellar. It depends on which wines are to be produced and with which vines you work. I never think according to pre-established models, so from this point of view, I am very secular.

About the author

Piero Pardini

Founder and editor of "The Wolf Post", Italian based International digital wine platform.
Freelance Journalist.
Wine critic and Sommelier.
He has also written about sports and technology for some specialized magazines.
Co-author of the authorized biography "Gianni Clerici - The writer, the poet the journalist", Le Lettere, Firenze.

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